The floor is the surface everyone looks at without noticing, and the one that forgives a bad installation least. A joint that doesn’t line up with a doorway, a lipped edge between large tiles or a laminate that creaks underfoot are mistakes you will see every single day for the next twenty years. That is why what matters is not only the material you choose, but the condition of the subfloor and who lays it.
At Grupo Construcciones Alicante we install floors in homes, business premises and communal areas across Alicante and the province: porcelain and ceramic tile, laminate, natural wood, vinyl, microcement and raised access flooring. We prepare the subfloor, set out the tiles before fixing anything and finish skirtings, trims and the junctions with doors and joinery so the result is clean throughout the property.
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Changing the floor transforms a home more than almost any other job, and these days it does not always mean ripping out the old one. If the existing floor is sound and level, the new one can go straight over the top: no rubble, no noise and several days saved, losing only about a centimetre in height, which is solved by trimming the doors. Where the substrate is hollow or uneven it isn’t worth it, and we say so.
Choosing well also matters because of the climate here. In coastal properties and on terraces you want paving with the right slip resistance, because a wet floor beside a pool is where accidents happen; and in high-traffic areas, a hard-wearing porcelain tile stops you seeing a worn path from the front door to the kitchen within two years.
Laying the floor is the final step; everything before it is what decides the result:
We check the condition of the existing floor, its level and whether it sounds hollow, and we measure each room. That tells us whether to lift it or lay over it, and how much material is needed once cuts are accounted for.
A fixed written quote with measured square metres, the chosen material, trims and skirtings, door trimming if required and removal of the old floor. No open-ended items.
We prepare the substrate: cleaning, repair of loose areas and levelling compound where the unevenness calls for it. This stage decides whether the floor ends up flat or lipped.
We set out before fixing: where the first tile starts, how the joints fall in the doorways and where the cuts go, so the cut pieces end up in the least visible places.
We check flatness, joint alignment and the absence of hollow tiles by tapping each one. Any tile that sounds hollow is lifted and relaid before grouting.
We grout, clean off the cement haze, fit skirtings and trims and explain how to look after the material you have chosen. The room is handed over ready to furnish.
Porcelain and ceramic. The most widely used option here for price, durability and cleaning. Large format looks superb and leaves fewer joints, but it demands a very flat substrate, back-buttering and levelling clips. Rectified tiles allow a minimal joint; non-rectified ones need a slightly wider joint, which also absorbs movement.
Laminate and vinyl. Laminate brings warmth at a sensible price and is laid floating over an acoustic underlay, which softens footstep noise, something to be grateful for in an apartment. SPC vinyl handles water, so it works in kitchens and bathrooms where laminate should not go. Natural wood is the premium choice: it can be sanded and re-varnished years later and comes up like new.
Microcement and seamless finishes. No joints, applied over the existing floor, ideal where visual continuity is the point. It needs very careful application and proper sealing; done badly, it scratches and stains.
Outdoors. For terraces, porches and pool surrounds, anti-slip frost-resistant paving with falls properly resolved so water drains away instead of pooling against the façade.
It depends on the room and how you live. In a home with children or pets, scratch resistance and easy cleaning win, and there porcelain or a good vinyl come out on top. If you want warmth underfoot, wood is better, and bedrooms are where you appreciate it most. In kitchens and bathrooms, any material that doesn’t cope with moisture is ruled out, however good it looks.
One factor almost nobody considers: the floor determines how much noise travels inside the building. Porcelain laid on a concrete slab transmits footsteps to the flat below; floating laminate with a good underlay absorbs a great deal of it. In buildings with noise complaints, that matters more than the finish.
And if you have underfloor heating, not every material performs the same: porcelain conducts heat very well, wood far less so and needs specific thicknesses and finishes. We tell you which combination works in your case before you buy anything.
Flooring work we carry out regularly in Alicante:
In many cases yes, and it is the quickest and cleanest option. The existing floor must be well bonded, with no hollow tiles or damp, and you need to be able to absorb the extra centimetre or so in height by trimming the doors. If the floor sounds hollow, has significant unevenness or the services underneath need renewing, then it has to come up.
Allow between 8% and 12% extra for cuts, and more for diagonal or herringbone layouts. Buy it all from the same production batch, because shade varies slightly between batches and it shows once laid, and keep a few spare tiles: if one cracks in a few years, finding the same model is usually impossible.
An average home in floating laminate takes two or three days. With porcelain you have to allow for the adhesive and grout to set before walking on it normally, so it usually runs to four or five days, plus levelling time if the substrate needs it. If the old floor has to come up, add a couple of days for the demolition and rubble removal.
Yes, each room has to be cleared. In occupied homes we work zone by zone so you can stay in the property: one area is finished and left walkable, then we move to the next. Furniture can be shifted from one zone to another, although the work advances more slowly than with an empty property.
If we lay over the existing floor, the doors are trimmed at the bottom so they open properly; we do that ourselves. Skirtings are almost always replaced, since removing them tends to damage them, and it is the moment to switch to a taller or lacquered profile matching the joinery. Transition profiles between rooms are chosen with you, because you will see them.
Yes, with the system’s precautions: flexible adhesive, respecting expansion joints and following the heating start-up protocol before and after laying. Porcelain performs best with underfloor heating; with wood you need compatible thickness and finish, and with laminate an underlay of low thermal resistance, or the floor will heat far less than it should.